While the bright bold colours of rubies, sapphires and emeralds have long featured on the engagement ring finger, as Princess Diana’s iconic sapphire proves, the myriad of possibilities is broadening. Contemporary designers such as Alice Cicolini, Polly Wales and Nadine Aysoy as well as larger international jewellers are embracing the seemingly endless palate of semi-precious stones to express the power of love through colour. Even the near ubiquitous white diamond engagement ring is taking on a new look as fancy yellow and champagne diamonds are gaining popularity with brides-to-be.

Of the wide palette of gemstones colours that range for olive-hued tourmalines to electric blue zircons, it is the pinks, yellows and blues that are gaining popularity as engagement ring choices but many less expected colours are also becoming popular. While many prefer the subtle pastel tint of a blue aquamarine or a pink kunzite those who want to make a statement with the deep shades of a green peridot, a rich yellow citrine or the majestic red of a rhodolite, there is more than ever to choose from.

Driven by a desire to let the bride-to-be express her individuality, designers such as Ananya has created a collection featuring unusual stone combinations. Ananya sets a deep blue cabochon tanzanite surrounded by diamonds on a large hexagon of blue abalone with a swirling peacock feather pattern of colours (below). Abalone is not for every bride, but its iridescent marbling makes this ring a striking choice.

Ananya’s ‘Celeste Dark Lotus Ring’ is set white gold. 0.56ct white diamonds surround the central 9.43ct cabochon tanzanite.

To capture the rosy glow of true love, delicate pink morganite, rose tourmalines and pink sapphires are increasingly popular choices for engagement rings. As of course is the pricier pink diamond (below). Bucherer Fine Jewellery and Ortaea offer a wider range of examples to feed this passion for pink. As Ortaea's Creative Director, Mita Vohra explains, “the pink hue…represents the colour of unconditional love, which is what I love most about these gems”.

The look of love is in Ortaea’s new ‘Pretty in Pink’ Bridal collection. The Venus ring features a pink diamond set in white gold and framed in white diamonds.

The Lucerne-based Bucherer Fine Jewellery, provides a colourful alternative to the solitaire ring with the Peekaboo collection (below). Large cushion-cut stones in soft pink, yellow and blue are circled by bands of diamonds, merging classic and contemporary looks.

Bucherer Fine Jewellery's ‘Peekaboo’ ring plays on the classic brilliant cut solitaire. Instead of a diamond, 202 brilliant cut white diamonds encircle a 12.2ct rose morganite set in rose gold,

For those wanting a stronger shade, de GRISOGONO has a selection of eye-catching rings bursting with colour. The 10.06 carat cushion-cut ruby is suspended in a pear-shaped halo of baguette-cut diamonds (below). The design plays with space as well as colour, leaving a void between the rounded, rich red ruby and the crisp edged white diamonds, an arrangement that brings balance to a powerful ring.

De Grisogono’s high jewellery ring has a vivid red cushion-cut 10.06ct ruby set in white gold and surrounded by 30 baguette-cut white diamonds and 74 rubies

If for you red is the colour of love then take a look at Nadine Aysoy’s ‘Tsarina Fire Flake’ collection (top). The crimson 7.00 carat rhodolite, is surrounded with a coronet of fine tracery that is as delicate as a snowflake. The magnificence of the Russian Empire is conjured up in the opulent red of the rhodolite.

Chaumet’s ‘Josephine Aigrette’ ring, is available in a variety of colours. Shown here is a pear-shaped 0.60ct amethyst and brilliant cut diamonds set in white gold. It is stacked with a rose gold wedding band set with brilliant cut diamonds.

Similarly, Chaumet’s ‘Josephine’ collection uses strong, regal colours. Established in 1780, Chaumet first adorned Empress Josephine and an air of Imperial elegance pervades. ‘The Josephine Aigrette’ collection (above), is an original and versatile choice of engagement ring. The pear-shaped aigrette centre-piece is reminiscent of the maison’s famous tiaras, but on a smaller scale to fit your finger. The Josephine ring can be set with an array of colour gemstones from amethyst, citrine and peridot, to aquamarine and rhodolite. The ‘v’ shape of the ring invites the company of a wedding band and later, an eternity ring.

For the unconventional colour-lover Polly Wales offers a distinctive alternative. Initially trained as a sculptor, Polly Wales’ designs have a fresh rawness. Through her ‘cast-not-set’ process, colourful stones seem to emerge organically from their gold surround (below). Polly is unafraid of uneven stone shapes. Her ‘Confetti Rings’ (from $4,4840-6,800) make an original alternative to the traditional eternity ring. The matte gold bands are speckled with coloured gems to comfortably accompany an engagement ring of any colour.

Polly Wales’ ‘Confetti Rings’ are a fresh and original alternative for the no-fuss-no-frills bride

Alice Cicolini’s bridal collection (below) is a testament to her eye for colour. Alice’s engagement rings can be paired with a matching enamelled eternity ring for a double colour pop. So dare to go beyond the traditional solitaires for an engagement ring to truly match your personality.

Alice Cicolini’s rings are a mouth-watering feast of colour. Set on yellow gold, the pave band of candy-coloured lacquer enamel stripes alternate between round-cut pink sapphires.
  • Polly Wales’ ‘Lady Stardust Diamond Stack ring’ is a truly unique ring set with a cosmic kaleidoscope of stones that pack a punch
  • Alessa ‘Double Lu’ ring has a colourless diamonds surrounding a blue sapphire in white gold. This design is also available in rose gold, with white and cognac diamonds
  • Chaumet’s ‘Josephine Aigrette’ ring, is available in a variety of colours. Shown here is a pear-shaped 0.60ct amethyst and brilliant cut diamonds set in white gold. It is stacked with a rose gold wedding band set with brilliant cut diamonds.
  • The look of love is in Ortaea’s new ‘Pretty in Pink’ Bridal collection. The Venus ring features a pink diamond set in white gold and framed in white diamonds.
  • Alice Cicolini, ‘Candy Kimono Diamond Stripe Engagement Ring’, lacquer, raspberry and purple diamonds with 1.6ct lavender sapphire.
  • Bucherer Fine Jewellery's ‘Peekaboo’ ring plays on the classic brilliant cut solitaire. Instead of a diamond, 202 brilliant cut white diamonds encircle a 12.2ct rose morganite set in rose gold,
  • Ananya’s ‘Celeste Dark Lotus Ring’ is set white gold. 0.56ct white diamonds surround the central 9.43ct cabochon tanzanite.
  • De Grisogono’s high jewellery ring has a vivid red cushion-cut 10.06ct ruby set in white gold and surrounded by 30 baguette-cut white diamonds and 74 rubies
  • Chaumet’s verdant green tourmaline surrounded by brilliant-cut diamonds from the ‘Bee My Love’ ring is a potent symbol of love.
  • Polly Wales’ ‘Confetti Rings’ are a fresh and original alternative for the no-fuss-no-frills bride
  • Nadine Aysoy’s ‘Tsarina Fire Flake Ring’ is set in rose gold and the central 7.00ct round-cut rhodolite is surrounded by a band of 28 pink sapphires (0.14ct). The snowflake edge is set with 105 white round cut 0.69ct diamonds.

    By Ottilie Kemp

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